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THE BRIEFING

A tailor’s tips for buying a suit for a slimmer frame

PUBLISHED ON
16th July 2020
WRITER
Katie Kwok

If you’re lucky enough to be as skinny as Zac Effron or Ryan Gosling, or any of the male models who parade the catwalks of Milan and New York, it’s surprisingly easy to find a bespoke suit that will do your frame justice.

It’s simply a matter of following a few basic rules. The really good news is that the style you need is a slim-fit suit and they’re still very much in fashion.

So what kind of styles and materials will suit slimmer frames? And how slim-fit should your suit be to flatter your frame? Here’s our short guide to slimmer-suit buying.

1. Keep it slim

We’d always recommend a slim-fit suit for skinnier men. A baggy or bulkier suit will only make you appear thinner than a rake. Try to make sure your shirt is also slim, or it’ll be prone to bunching.

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2. Go thicker

As tailors, we recommend a proper fitting for a bespoke suit. If you don’t want to appear too slim, opt for heavier materials such as flannel wool or tweed.

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3. Light and bright

Lighter colours work best with a slim frame. Consider blue or grey. Darker shades will result in a perception of a slender frame.

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4. No pleats

Flat-front trousers work best with slimmer men. Wearing pleats can result in a bulging effect when you sit down. The oversized-trousers look can also make your upper body look strangely emaciated, especially if you have a tight shirt.

5. No pinstripes

While you should opt for vertical patterns if you’re quite short, pinstripes are best avoided. They’re the preserve of men who are shorter and bulkier in physique.

6. Straight trousers

Straight-leg trousers will produce the most well-proportioned look. Trousers that are too thin can make your legs look over-skinny.

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7. Braces not belts

The problem for thin men when it comes to belts is finding one small enough. A safer option is braces, which are also more stylish.

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8. And the jacket?

It’s key to achieve the right length on the jacket. Anything longer than the hip will make you look ultra-skinny, while anything shorter will create the appearance of a short body.

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9. Slim the shoulders

Make sure your suit jacket shoulders aren’t too wide. You need to avoid bunching and too much fabric.The shoulders should rest flat against the shoulder bone and perhaps 0.5″ or 1cm wider than your actual shoulder measurement. For shoulder construction, avoid thin shoulder pads and opt for 6mm or 10mm padding. If you do not want padded shoulders, go for a Roper Shoulder which will accentuate your shoulders in absence of the shoulder pads.

10. Go for a slimmer tie width

A standard tie on a skinny man can look like a kipper tie on anyone else. A slimmer tie will flatter your shape and give you a perception of width in the upper body.

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Why not book a fitting at a Senszio Trunk Show in a city near you? Our expert travelling tailors will talk you through every detail of your bespoke suit, perfect to the particularities of your frame and style.